A Relaxing Day in the Comstock Lode: Virginia City, Nevada

The last day of our Nevada getaway is being spent in the old west mining town of Virginia City. Relegated to ghost town status in the 1930's, after the silver mines played out, the town had a revival in the early 1960's when the hit western series "Bonanza" hit the airwaves. Much of that show was set in Virginia City, although none of it was filmed there, which is why the fictional Virginia City of that show looks nothing like the real one.

It's a steep climb into Virginia City. So steep, in fact, that trucks and other large vehicles are banned from the main road. They must take a longer, more gently climbing road to the east.

All that climbing results in C Street (the town's main drag, also state highway 341) being at the same elevation as the water level at Lake Tahoe, high in the sierras on the other side of Carson Valley. This also makes the weather a bit more mild than the desert temperatures below, although some winter days here can be brutal.

This late April day, though, is very pleasant and clear. We park at the courthouse in a handicapped spot (which I found out later I should not have done...it's only open to tourists on the weekends). There are some pay lots along C Street. Street parking is free and there are a few other free lots a block west or east of C but it will entails negotiating a hill in this steeply banked city. (Download this PDF Map of Virginia City to see where the parking lots are) 

Our first stop is a short block down a steep hill to the visitor's center on the corner of C and Taylor Streets. We pick up a copy of that map...we're wishing that they had a cool walking tour of the town like Carson City did but it's just a basic map...and notice that they also have two accessible restrooms available along with free popcorn and gin tasting in what was an old and historic Virginia City saloon (this used to be the Crystal and the lighted sign and chandeliers above the bar are 1870's originals).

We continue north along C. While Letty browses a couple of antique shops, Tim and I share a red ale at the Virginia City Taphouse and Brewery. Technically, it's just a taphouse now as the owners have removed the brewing tanks and equipment for preparation to a move next door.

It's very good. We want to check out the Delta Saloon, which is supposed to be one of the few places in Nevada where you can still play old-fashioned, coin operated slot machines but the Delta has gone out of business. Its famous "Suicide Table" has been moved to a saloon across the street.

At the end of the block, we cross over to The Way It Was Museum and check out a few artifacts in their courtyard. We're not moved to pay admission to go in, however.

The Bonanza Saloon, which looks like it is still in the middle of a renovation, is the new home of the "Suicide Table," formerly of the Delta across the street. This is an old faro table which had a few owners who lost big, went broke, and decided to take the easy way out, giving it the name it's known by today.

What used to be a museum but it closed now, is the offices of the Territorial Enterprise where a young reporter named Samuel Clemens started writing under the name of Mark Twain.

A couple of doors down, we check out the extensive chandelier collection of the Virginia City Bar and Grill, where I pick up a quick $2.50 playing one of their slot machines.

I quickly sink my winnings into some candy for Tim and I at the extensively stocked Virginia City Mercantile.

While waiting outside another antique shop for Letty, Tim and I meet a detective from the sheriff's office who chats with us about life here. There are less than 5,000 residents of the county (Storey County, the smallest in Nevada). The Sheriff provides all the local law enforcement for the county with 20 deputies under him who work out of a small, storefront office at the end of the street.

The courthouse we parked at is still in use as is a newer one at the edge of town next to the jail. 

We bid the detective a good day as we stroll along to the Firehouse Barbecue at the end of the street on the other side of the Sheriff's Office. Along with the grill, there's a full bar and and ice cream bar.

I

t's the ice cream we're after and we get a couple cups and enjoy them out on the deck where we also get to take in the famous 100 mile view from Virginia City.

Back across the street, Letty checks out some more shops while Tim and I head to the Ponderosa Saloon where, along with your libation, there's a entrance to a mineshaft in the back of the room. Tours are available but, alas, it's not chair friendly.

We finish up back where we started where Letty picks up a bottle of gin from the visitor's center to take home. Back in the van, we do a little auto touring to check out the cemetery and the area east of town.

There's a trail, fairly accessible (packed dirt) that starts here and heads east into the hills with lots of warnings not to stray off unless you want to die a lonely death along the shards or water in an unmarked mine shaft.

Indeed, there's a fenced off area next to the starting kiosk where a fifty foot section of mineshaft collapsed. Luckily, no one was standing on top at the time.

With that, our time in Virginia City is done. We head back down to Minden where we have a delicious and cheap ($14.99) prime rib dinner at the Carson Valley Inn Casino.

Tomorrow, it's back home.

Darryl Musick

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