Wednesday, January 24, 2018

The Last Man Standing in Oildale...Rockwell and His Honky Tonk


UPDATE 2018 - Well, another one bites the dust. Trout's, the last true honky tonk in Bakersfield, stopped operating around June of last year. The club's owner, Thomas Rockwell, defaulted on the bank loan and the building was sold at auction to Truman Investments, Inc. At that point, Rockwell seems to have disappeared or is at least 'lying low' as one of the attorneys involved says.  He also seems to have absconded with the iconic trout sign out front.

Now, the new owners are suing him for damages and return of the sign...if they can find him. What is to become of this legendary nightclub is anyone's guess at this point. For now, if you want to hear live Country music in this Country music Mecca, your only choice is the Crystal Palace and maybe the occasional concert by a headliner at the Fox Theatre or the Rabobank Arena.

We met Rockwell (see below) and he really seemed invested in making Trout's a viable venue. A true gentleman on the day we met him, it's sad to see how this tale is unfolding. 

Read on to see our visit to this iconic and historic honky tonk, located just a few blocks from where Merle Haggard grew up.

Each time we come to this city in the south end of the San Joaquin Valley, we find something new to see or experience.  There was the first time we went to the Crystal Palace. Then, the old town streets of the Kern County Museum and the Oil Museum. Letty getting to be the darling of the game at the local minor league team's game; tasting the great margaritas at Mexicali; the outstanding food of Los Tacos de Huicho, Urrichio's, and the area's many Basque restaurants; hiking along the Kern River...the list goes on and on.

So what will we find on our latest stay in this very underrated travel destination?

I've got two free nights at the Springhill Suites courtesy of the Marriott Rewards program and a day and a half to explore. We're thinking of going honky tonking tonight but can't decide if we should go with the safe bet of the Crystal Palace or be a little adventurous and head over the river to the more rough-and-tumble Oildale.



Our Bakersfield guide says that there are local bands jamming all day at Trout's...billing itself at Bakersfield's last "true" honky tonk...we head over there to see the action.

Mid day on Friday, though, there is none.  We do settle in to have a drink and introduce ourselves to the bar's owner, Thomas Rockwell. Rockwell is what he prefers to be called, so Rockwell it is. He's very nice and a gentleman to take a few minutes to chat with us before heading over to the other end of the bar.



There, a camera crew has set up and is interviewing Rockwell for a show. He's in very high demand as Trout's, and the Bakersfield Sound, is getting a lot more attention these days. Even the Country Music Hall of Fame in Nashville has set aside a wing to salute the Bakersfield Sound (very distinct from what comes out of Nashville) and hometown heroes like Buck Owens and Oildale's most famous product, Merle Haggard.



While the bartender sets Tim and I up with a couple of good microbrews (I know, in a honky tonk?) and makes a red velvet cocktail for Letty, we wander around the two stages, snapping a few pictures and listening in to the interview.



We learn that Trout's has been at this location since the 1940's and in business going back over 80 years.  Rockwell is trying to spiff it up a bit but there are still corners of the building that are off limits because of ongoing repair issues.

Back out into the harsh, Central Valley sunshine, we pile back into the van and head back to Rosedale Highway for dinner.



We'll fill up on an extensive Basque meal at one of our favorites, Benji's, sitting behind derelict derricks and other oilfield detritis just east of the 99.

After the drive from Gold Country, we end up too tired to go out for the show, so we just relax in the suite and enjoy some after dinner wine before turning in for a long night's rest. Tomorrow, we'll go find another new pleasure in our favorite underrated travel destination.

Darryl
Copyright 2014 - Darryl Musick
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